Sweet Preserved Kumquats

Organic kumquats sold in bulk finally arrived in our market and I was relieved. I’ve been making preserved kumquats (similar to preserved lemons) in batches throughout the last two winters and was worried that I’d miss the season. I learned this trick from Tigress of Can Jam fame and it’s genius. I see that she has posted another version this year on her blog Tigress in a Jam. I tinkered with a previous recipe of hers and am finally hitting proportions of lemon juice, sugar and salt that I like.

I serve them as a garnish for vegetables such as broccoli and roasted cauliflower, or a salad of bitter greens. My favorite is to use the liquid as a dressing for salad, since the skin of the kumquats yields its oils and you basically need nothing else. I have to admit though that a little toasted butternut seed oil is a pretty special addition. 

Sweet Preserved Kumquats adapted from Tigress in a Pickle

6-8 oz kumquats, preferably organic (enough to fill a pint jar)

½-2/3 c freshly squeezed lemon juice

¼-1/3 c turbinado sugar

2 tbsp salt

1½ tsp ground black pepper

Seasonings: either 1½ tsp fennel seeds plus1 tsp whole cumin seed, OR1 tsp coriander plus 1 tsp whole cumin seed plus a 1” piece of cinnamon stick OR 5 whole cloves OR …

Wash the kumquats well, dry them thoroughly and let them sit to finish drying for at least several hours, if not overnight.

Remove any vestige of the stem, and slice the kumquats vertically but not all of the way through. Remove the largest seeds. Place them in a pint jar.

Gently heat the lemon juice and the sugar over low heat, stirring, just until the sugar is dissolved. Cool.

Select your spices and lightly crush them.

Add the salt, pepper and chosen spice combination to the kumquats in the jar and pour in the cooled liquid. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and give the jar a good shake. (You can skip warming the sugar and lemon juice, but the raw sugar doesn’t always dissolve well.)

Set the jar aside on the counter, shaking daily for a week to ten days, until the kumquats have softened but still have some firmness. Refrigerate. They can keep for a long time but not around here. They’re too good.

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Greatest Hits of 2011

So what clicked the most with my readers this year? A few conspicuous trends, heavy on the cannin’ and jammin’ as you would expect from a blog with the word “pantry” in the title. It was definitely a good year for the pantry, with over 250 jars added, not counting the ones I already gave away. Drum roll…here are this year’s winners:

How to Eat Your Lawn

This mini-series topped the charts, especially the violet jelly and dandelion jelly from flowers that grow in our so-called lawn (otherwise known as the prairie).  The violets went viral, with over 800 clicks in one day alone.  The jellies were delicious and went fast. Continuing the flower theme later in the season, I made Queen Anne’s Lace jelly, which was pretty special, and another jelly with electric blue borage blossoms.  Mint and rosemary jellies were right up there in the ranks, 5^th place this year. More herb jellies (like lemon basil and rose geranium) were part of my “Preserving Herbs” series.

Mo’ Marmalade Momma

Yup, once again on top of the charts are the three versions of Meyer lemon marmalade that I made for the inaugural month of the Tigress Can Jam of 2010. The lemons were a gift hand-carried from California and were made memorable by the addition of rosemary and ginger. This holds the all-time record as my most popular post.

Sweet ‘n’ Hot

Another all-time winner, again one of my entries in the 2010 Tigress Can Jam, is Sweet ‘n’ Hot Red Pepper Jam. I made a couple of cases of 4-ounce jars again this year to rave reviews. No one seems to have a favorite among the three versions: a plain one spiced with ginger, ditto but with a dab of adobo sauce (smokin’ good), and a third with star anise and cardamom (in the holiday spirit).  Tomato Salsa with Ancho Chili also made it onto a favorites list, probably since it’s been featured on other blogs like Punk Domestics.

Pickle Projects

A couple of pickle projects made the top ten, stealing votes from each other. One is a sweet ‘n’ hot bread and butter pickle and the other a group of three in one post: pickled garlic scapes, dill pickles, and more bread and butter pickles. Luckily I made a lot more of these this year than last so no one should complain.  A certain person I know eats them straight from the jar. For dinner.

Party Fare

Just when you thought that I cook only for the pantry, along comes a beautiful salmon terrine wrapped in leeks and stuffed with mushroom vodka cream, pretty enough for a party. This is the second most clicked-on post in the past two years and fourth this year. It was my entry in the monthly Paper Chef international challenge, which sadly has now folded. It had been the long running blog contest (over five years) before it faded away. I miss you guys.

Waste Not Want Not

Not a new concept for me, but called out explicitly in a series of posts about frugal cooking. On the theme of “use the whole plant,” I made a very popular Celeriac Soup in a post called “Roots, Stalks and Leaves” and a version in my new Waste Not Want Not series. While many people know this vegetable only by its knobby root, which is how it most often found in the supermarket, it actually has a useful stalk (substitute for Pascal celery if you want to eat locally) and leaves when you can get them from your CSA or the farmers’ market. As part of my Preserving Herbs series, I made celery salt from the leaves (for the pantry of course).

Auld Lang Syne

Much to my delight, Sour Cream Blueberry Bread made the cut. I used to be known for the volume and variety of quick breads that I made, a sucker volunteer for every bake sale and charity event involving food. I literally cooked my way through graduate school with recipes like this, producing wares sold at a weekly departmental lunch.

Happy New Year everyone!

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Broccoli with Sweet Preserved Kumquats

When I was at a local pea patch last weekend, I spotted a neighboring crop of broccoli that was starting to head and couldn’t resist cutting a few. Just-picked spring broccoli is a far cry from what you get in the supermarket or even from the farm in fall. Tender and sweet, it cooks in no time plunged into a large pot of boiling water.  Served simply with a little olive oil and salt or tossed into pasta, spring broccoli is a real treat.  Instead of using olive oil, I dressed the broccoli in a little kumquat liquid and garnished it with the preserved kumquats that have become an obsession of mine since the winter.

 I usually preserve lemons Moroccan-style when beautiful un-waxed organic fruit comes into the market, and dip into the jar all year long. This year, I also made lime pickle and preserved kumquats. The kumquats, unlike the unadorned lemons, contained sugar and spices in addition to salt, not to mention, a lot less salt. This is a liberal variation on an Indian recipe, posted by Tigress of Can Jam fame. Genius.  I made several batches of these kumquats – with the spices that Tigress used (fennel seed, cumin and black pepper) and with other traditional spices (coriander, cumin and cinnamon). I use the kumquat “juice” instead of oil and vinegar on salads and chopped preserved kumquats as accent, much as you would a pungent olive.  

Sweet Preserved Kumquats, thanks to Tigress in a Pickle

12 oz organic kumquats

Juice of 2 lemons

1 tbsp salt

½ c natural brown sugar such as demerara or turbinado

Spice mix

Alternative 1: 1 tsp fennel seed, 1 tsp crushed black pepper, ½ tsp cumin seed

Alternative 2:  1 tsp coriander seed, 1 tsp crushed black pepper, ½ tsp cumin seed, 1 3-4-inch cinnamon stick

Clean and thoroughly dry the kumquats, for a couple of hours at least. Slit each kumquat pole to pole but do not detach. Combine all of the ingredients in a jar. Seal and put it in a warm, sunny place (windowsill).  Shake the jar daily to re-combine the ingredients. The kumquats will gradually ooze their liquid. After about 3 weeks, the kumquats will be tender to the fork, at which time they should be refrigerated.  Use in a few months’ time.

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Crock of Ages: Confiture des Vieux Garçons

Tigress started it. She posted a picture of her new preserving pot – a crock like the one I used to use for sauerkraut – and a preserving process for fruit that spans the entire growing season. She called it by its French name, which means “old bachelors’ preserves,” whereas I know it by the German “rumtopf.” From early strawberries and cherries to late muscadine grapes and Seckel pears, new harvests go into the crock in undisturbed layers, doused with sugar dissolved in brandy (or kirschwasser or rum).

I typically used 12-16 oz of fruit to 6 oz sugar and ½ c brandy, though I made sure the first layer was completely covered in liquid. My crock has heavy ceramic inserts to weigh down ingredients for pickling but I thought that would crush the fruit, which should stay submerged. So I used a circular silicone potholder and wedged it in the crock.  This year I added about two different fruits a month, but I could have added three or four based on the size of our crock.  They all came from local orchards.

By the time the year-end holidays came around, we had a delicious and not too boozy concoction to eat as a compote, to spoon over ice cream, to add to an aperitif. Strawberries are only a few months away, so we are working our way through the rest of the fruit in time to start this adventure again.

June 2010: strawberries and several varieties of cherries

July 2010: apricots and red sugar plums

August 2010: Italian prune plums and small yellow nectarines

September 2010: purple figs and Seckel pears

October 2010: giant muscadine grapes

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January: A Portable Pantry for a New Start

A new year, a new city, new apartments and new schools or jobs mean new pantries to set up for those near and dear to me. I also refill a couple of pantries at holiday time and give many homemade gifts. Luckily for all of us, 2010 was a bounteous year, as I participated enthusiastically in the Tigress Can Jam every month, often preserving several items in the monthly theme. Plus it was a great growing year locally. After the tomato blight of 2009, I am finally satisfied that we have enough tomatoes in the larder until the next fruit is ripening on the vine.

I did a lot of experimenting this past year, learning new techniques and trying new ingredients, which translated into many batches of only 2-4 jars each. I’m scared to count but I bet there are as many different varieties as weeks in a year.  Because of small-batching, some of the greatest hits – the strawberry-currant jam, “rhu-barbeque” sauce, curried onion relish and apricot lavender jam – didn’t last the summer, and the pear-chestnut jam and spicy plum sauce were mostly depleted during the holidays.

This particular portable pantry included: 3 salsas (ancho pepper, peach and tomatillo), bread & butter pickles, pickled asparagus, curried corn relish, cherries in wine sauce, 3 tomato sauces (tomato shallot, Amish Paste tomatoes with onion and garlic, and Plum Dandy with marjoram), 2 ketchups (sweet tomato with ginger and lime, and tomato “harissa” sauce), multiple jams (plum with tonka bean, black fig, orange-fig, yellow zucchini with ginger and lime, peach butterscotch, sweet-hot chili pepper), 2 marmalades (orange and quince), and lemon basil jelly.

Many of the recipes are on my blog. Check out the categories Preserving and Tigress Can Jam.

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Apple-Cranberry-Raisin Conserve with Port and Thyme

Chunky apples sweetened with raisins and a few dried cranberries, tempered by thyme and softened by a shot of port, this conserve will be great with potato pancakes, baked winter squash, pumpkin soup, and any number of other wintry dishes. I also made this with pears and raisins, and it was equally good. Both versions were pretty spunky from the orange and lemon juices, relatively small amount of sugar and the addition of herbs. For the December (can’t believe it’s been a whole year!) Tigress Can Jam, the theme is dried fruit, used as an accent. When we focused on alliums earlier this year, I made a curried onion jam with raisins, which I plan on making again soon, before the local onions disappear, so I was pretty confident that raisins would be a good counterpoint to the fruit.

The recipe for this concoction was based on “Pear, Port and Thyme Conserve” in Erica Bone’s Well-Preserved cookbook, which she in turn adapted from a recipe I couldn’t identify in the Ball Complete Book of Home Preserving. While I used Bone’s concept and method, I changed just about everything else.

Apple Conserve with Port and Thyme adapted from Erica Bone’s Well-Preserved

½ c freshly squeezed orange juice

¼ c lemon juice (bottled to guarantee acidity or a little additional fresh)

1 tbsp lemon zest

½ c turbinado or demerara (brown) sugar

½ tsp ground cinnamon

¼ tsp freshly ground nutmeg

1 tsp grated fresh ginger

Pinch of salt

½ c raisins

2 tbsp dried cranberries

3 lbs apples, peeled cored and coarsely chopped (1/2-3/4-inch pieces)

4 tsp fresh thyme leaves

¼ c port wine

Prepare the canning jars. Place the juices, seasonings, sugar and dried fruit in a large saucepan and bring the mixture to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the apples, stir to combine and let them boil gently, with the pan covered, for 15 minutes. Remove the lid and cook slowly for another 15 minutes or until the fruit is soft but still somewhat chunky. Add the port and thyme and stir to combine. Ladle into hot canning jars, making sure to tamp the fruit down to eliminate air pockets. Process the jars in a water bath canner for 10 minutes after the water boils. Turn off the heat, remove canner lid and let sit for 5 minutes until moving to a spot where the jars can sit undisturbed until cool.  Makes about 5 half-pint jars.

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Pear Jam with Sage and Sage Honey

Fragrant with the fruity aroma of pears and a whiff of sage, and finished with a little honey, this is a lovely jam. The November Tigress Can Jam has come and gone, and while I made a fantastic pear and chestnut jam for the post, I wasn’t done with my recent obsession with pears. With the exception of Asian pears that seem to over-winter, our local pears varieties have a fleeting presence and therefore I wanted to put up the last of them for the pantry.

When we were in San Francisco a month ago, we picked up a bottle of sage honey. Light in color and subtle in flavor, it was a good complement to the gentle pear flavor of this jam, and finished it off nicely. If I had had no sage honey, I would have used a mild flavored honey so as not to compete with the pears. I added a little sage leaf to each jar since I thought that the sage flavor and smell would disappear after processing and storing the jam. The idea of adding honey at the end came from the recently published Blue Chair Jam Cookbook, a hefty and beautifully produced book brimming with great ideas.

Pear Jam with Sage and Sage Honey adapted from The Blue Chair Jam Cookbook

4-6 Bartlett pears (2 ¼ – 2 ¼ lbs)

Juice of 1 lemon

1 ½ c granulated sugar

3-4 sprigs of sage

1 tbsp sage honey (or 2 tsp of more strongly flavored honey)

½ tsp cider vinegar

Small sage leaves for the jars

Peel and core the pears and chop them finely into a bowl containing the lemon juice. Work quickly to avoid browning the pears. Stir in the sugar, cover the surface with plastic wrap or parchment paper and then cover the bowl. Set aside to macerate overnight.

Prepare the canning jars and place a plate in the freezer for testing the jam’s gel. Bring the pear mixture to a boil over high heat and cook until a drop tested on the frozen plate is wrinkly and slightly sticky.

Remove from the heat and add the sage sprigs to steep in the pear jam for about 5 minutes. Remove the sage, and add the honey and a few drops of cider vinegar. Heat gently and pour into prepared jars. Process in a water bath canner for 10 minutes after the water returns to a boil. Turn off the heat, remove the canner lid and let the jars sit for 5 minutes before removing to let them cool, undisturbed.

Makes five 4-oz jars.

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Pear and Chestnut Jam

This is an inspired concoction – fragrant ripe pears, vanilla and a touch of lemon paired with sugary chestnuts from an American source. The aromas were amazing, and the taste sublime.  Thank you for choosing pears (along with apples and quince) for the November Tigress Can Jam. This is straight from a Christine Ferber playbook. I lowered some of the sugar content but it was still very sweet.  My chestnuts took longer to cook than hers and I did not puree them completely, preferring to preserve the slightly chewy texture of the nuts.

While the lovely American chestnut trees of our distant past were wiped out by blight, there are some farmers in the Midwest who are sustainably reviving the industry. Our local health food store snagged a shipment of them a few weeks ago and I could not resist. Okay, not local in the immediate sense of the word, but certainly better than the ones from Italy found in grocery stores at this time of year.

I bet this jam will be useful in tarts, meringues, sandwich cookies, even stirred into soup. Even though I halved Ferber’s recipe, I got 10 4 oz jars and enough to line the bottom of a delicious pear tart. (The tart was terrific and the jam worked perfectly.)

The next time I make this (it’s a keeper), I will halve the chestnuts, roast them, lower the sugar even more, and add a spunky seasonal herb like rosemary, sage, savory or thyme.  But I will also make the recipe just as is.

Peeling chestnuts. These chestnuts were smaller than the ones you usually see, under an inch in any direction, and their skins were not quite so hard to cut. To peel them, cut an X in the rounded side, making sure to penetrate both the outer shell and the inner flaky skin. Working in small batches, pour boiling water over them and let them sit for about three minutes. The easiest ones to peel will be those that sink to the bottom of the bowl. Take them out of the water one at a time. If you squeeze the shell, the X should open and the skins should slip off. Some need the help of a paring knife.  Alternatively, you could roast them in a 375-degree oven or in a perforated pan over an open flame.

Pear and Chestnut Jam adapted from Christine Ferber

In this recipe the chestnuts and pears are cooked separately and left to macerate overnight. They are once again cooked separately and then combined.

Chestnut mixture:

1 ½ lbs fresh chestnuts, yielding about14 oz after peeling

2 c sugar

1 ¼ c water

½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise

Put the ingredients in a large shallow pan and bring to a boil, stirring. Cook for about 15-20 minutes or until the chestnuts are soft (time may vary). Pour into a ceramic bowl, cover with parchment, cool, and set aside in the refrigerator overnight.

Pear mixture

Juice of 1 lemon

1 ½ lb pears (I used 4 Bartlett pears, but had Asian pears on deck)

1 ½ c sugar

½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise

Place the lemon juice in the bottom of a wide saucepan. Peel the pears and chop them into small pieces, immediately dropping them into the lemon juice to avoid browning. Add the sugar and vanilla and bring the mixture to a simmer. Pour into a ceramic bowl, cover with parchment, cool, and set aside in the refrigerator overnight.

Assembling the jam

Prepare canning jars and lids and put a plate in the freezer for testing the jam’s set. Cook the chestnut mixture and pear mixture separately over high heat for about 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Combine the two mixtures, bring to a boil and simmer for another 5 or so minutes until the set tests done. Process in a water bath canner for 10 minutes after the water returns to a boil. Turn off the heat, remove the lid and let the jars sit for five minutes until removing to the counter to sit undisturbed until completely cool.

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Pear and Chestnut Tart

This is one of  the most decadent and satisfying desserts that I know how to make. With my new pear and chestnut jam as a base, I think it is even better than the classic version with ground almonds. The new jam perfectly complements the riff on a traditional tart.

For this month’s Tigress Can Jam, I made a delectable pear and chestnut jam flavored with vanilla and lemon. The aroma and taste were amazing. I have been collecting pears for a couple of weeks as the season winds down for the local Bartletts, though the Asian pears will continue to be available since they are nearly as sturdy as apples. With extra pears and jam on my hands, I decided to make a pear tart that’s based on oh-so-many apple tarts.

Instead of the traditional “frangipane,” a mixture of ground almonds, sugar, butter and egg,  which acts as a base for the fruit, I substituted my newly made jam for the sugar and nuts, assuming that the sparkling flavor would also complement the pears. I was right. This was delicious. I glazed the tart with apricot and nectarine jam from the summer, tinged with a little local white Port.

Pear and Chestnut Tart

Tart crust (a version of Jacques Pepin’s method)

2 c flour

1 tsp sugar

½ tsp salt

1½ stick cold butter, cubed

1/3 c + ice water

Pulse the dry ingredients in a food processor to blend. Add the cold butter and pulse to create medium-coarse pieces. With the motor running, quickly add the ice water and stop, Transfer the mixture to a bowl and combine the ingredients quickly with your hands, adding a little more ice water.  Do not over-mix or the crust will be gluey and tough. Gather the dough into a flat patty, wrap it in plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator for at least an hour.

When ready to bake, roll the dough out to the desired thickness (thin is best) and transfer it to a 9-inch removable-bottom tart pan. Refrigerate until ready to bake.

This recipe makes two 9-inch tart crusts.

Frangipane

For this particular tart, the filling acts as a cushion between  fruit and  crust.  A typical mixture, again per Jacques Pepin, would include about ¾ c almonds and 1/2 c sugar ground together and mixed with an egg and 1 tbsp melted butter. Here, I used about 1/3 c of my pear and chestnut jam ( 1 4 0x jar), mixed with 1 tbsp melted butter and 1 egg, lightly beaten. Pour this into the cold tart crust and return to the refrigerator while preparing the pears.

Pears

Squeeze the juice of one lemon into a shallow bowl. Peel 4-5 pears, depending on the size. (I used five 3-inch Forelle pears, which were ripe but still firm.) Slice the pears vertically and core them. Cut the pear halves vertically into ¼-inch slices, or a little thinner, dunking them in the lemon juice to prevent browning.

Assembly and baking

Remove the half-filled tart shell from the refrigerator and place the sliced pears on top. Overlap the pears slightly starting at the outside. If they are uneven (mine were), create a center rosette with pears slices forming the edges and chopped up pears in the center. Sprinkle with 2 tbsp sugar and dot with a teaspoon or two of cold butter.

Baking

Bake the tart in a preheated 400-degree oven for about an hour, or until the crust and fruit

are brown and fully cooked. Remove to a rack to cool completely. Remove the tart from the pan as soon as it is cool enough to handle.

Glazing

Mix 3 tbsp apricot jam with 2 tbsp water and 1 tbsp sugar in a small saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove to a bowl to cool, covering with parchment paper to prevent a skin from forming. When ready to apply, add a tsp of kirsch if desired (or in this case a tsp of local port, nothing strong enough to divert from the pears).

When the tart is completely cooled, lightly brush on the glaze, taking care not to disturb the placement of the fruit.

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Last Call for Tomatoes: Sweet Ketchup and a Hot Sauce

Our first frost was late this year so we were harvesting tomatoes well into October, picking them when they just started to turn to pink and letting them ripen to red in the house (out of the sun). By this time I have already done what I call my “big jar” canning, meaning quarts of tomatoes and quarts and pints of tomato sauce and other less seasoned purees that will be the basis for soup, stew, risotto etc. all winter. Of course there were salsas and small jars of my favorite tomato shallot sauce that is nearly as dense as tomato paste.  Now, for the final act, the last plum-sized cherry tomatoes are being roasted slowly in the oven and stored in the freezer, and the remaining paste tomatoes are being turned into two tasty sauces: a sweet tomato ketchup and a fiery hot pepper and tomato sauce.

I didn’t get around to posting the hot sauce for the October series of the Tigress Can Jam that focused on capsicums but it would have been a good candidate since it’s based on New Mexico chile peppers combined with tomatoes, onion and garlic and reduced to a thick paste. The recipe came from the Ball Complete Book of Home Preserving, where it’s titled “Harissa Sauce.” I re-named it since it’s hardly harissa, given the addition of the tomatoes and spices.

For my tomato shallot sauce, and for these two, I lightly salt the peeled, de-seeded and chopped tomatoes and let them drain in a colander for a couple of hours. This has the advantage of removing extra liquid from the tomatoes and allows them to reduce rather quickly to a thick sauce. Of course, I omit any salt from the ultimate recipe. The resulting drained liquid is added to the tomato juice strained from de-seeding and is a delightful drink (which, with the addition of a little lemon juice, can also be water-bath-canned, or frozen as is).

The original tomato ketchup recipe can be found on Tigress’s website, here. I tinkered with it a bit, especially in the preparation but also in the proportions. No matter… it was good. I might consider decreasing the sugar in the future. I certainly cut the salt by at least half.

Tomato Hot Sauce adapted from the Ball Complete Book of Home Preserving

1 ½ lbs plum tomatoes (to yield 2 c chopped)

Salt

1 ¼ – 2 oz dried New Mexico chiles

1 c chopped onions

¼ c plus 1 tbsp brown sugar

½ c cider vinegar

¼ c chopped seeded red bell pepper

2 tsp ground cumin (preferably freshly ground along with the other spices)

¾ tsp ground coriander

2 tbsp minced garlic

1 ½ tsp salt

Bring a pot of water to a boil and put a second pot of ice water in the sink. Plunge the tomatoes, a few at a time, into the boiling water, remove to the ice water. Core and peel them, halve them across the equator, remove the seeds and watery flesh to a sieve, chop the pieces, and place them in a sieve over a bowl. When all of the tomatoes have been prepared, lightly salt them and let them drain for about two hours.

Remove the stems and seeds from the dried hot peppers (being careful to avoid touching them with your flesh, which could disseminate the burning oils) and soak them submerged in hot (boiled) water for about 20 minutes. Puree the mixture in a food processor and set aside.

Place all ingredients in a large, wide saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring occasionally to avoid burning on the bottom.  Reduce heat to simmer the mixture and cook for about 20-25 minutes until thick.

Meanwhile, prepare the jars and canning lids for water bath canning. Ladle the hot sauce into the jars, seal them and process in a water bath canner for 10 minutes (assuming you’re using 4 oz or 8 oz jars). Turn off the heat, remove the lid and let the jars settle for 5 minutes before removing to cool undisturbed.

Makes 5-6 four-oz jars.

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