Dark Days 10 One-Pot Challenge: Sunday Roast Chicken with Root Vegetables and Cider

A continuing series on weekly meals that use sustainable, organic, local and ethical food during the challenging winter months. For more information, go here to the DDC section of Not Dabbling in Normal’s website: Dark Days Challenge.

… In which I improve my roasting skills and create a Sunday meal that will give us inspired ingredients all week.

This week’s Dark Days challenge is to make a one-pot meal – for me, another one-pot meal since this has been a recent theme around here. Soups and stews, especially during the dark days, abound in our household. It’s not unusual to have made three or four in any given week. However, what we’ve been missing since the holidays is the traditional Sunday roast: meat or poultry leisurely prepared on the weekend for a communal feast, and then divvied up for small suppers all week long. A beautiful chicken from Griggstown Quail Farm would fill the bill, roasted with local organic root vegetables infused with Terhune Orchards cider.

 I’ve prepared this dish in past years, several times, and with only semi-satisfying results, so this gave me another chance for improvement. I actually didn’t have a finite plan when I started. However, while I was driving to Griggstown along snow-covered roads hugging the canal, and listening to NPR’s “A Splendid Table” on the radio, Lynne Rosetto Kaspar interviewed Molly Stevens about her new cookbook on roasting, and I said, “Ah ha!” Stevens described a daylong salt-curing process for roasting chicken, and I realized that this might be the trick that would keep my chicken from being braised or poached in the presence of so much liquid.  I wanted a crisp-skinned, flavorful bird sitting atop a rich medley of roots, and that’s what we got.

The “trick” was to rub salt all over the bird (a scant teaspoon per pound) and let it air-dry in the refrigerator for a day. The bird sweats initially, but then absorbs the salt to infuse the meat. This eventually will allow the skin to crisp around a moist interior. I also started cooking the bird in a 400-degree oven for 15 minutes before adding the cut-up veggies and the cider. The result was a chicken with crispy skin and succulent meat. The local organic vegetables – carrots, sweet potatoes, parsnips, yellow turnip, rutabaga and onion – were accompanied by a Granny Smith apple and cider, and a sprinkling of dried winter savory and thyme from our CSA. The only non-local ingredient was the salt.  This went from one pan to one communal platter to one plate each. 

 Writing this up after the fact, I am in the midst of experiencing the most aromatic chicken stock made of the bones and meat juice, and separately a vegetable broth from the peelings. We also have plenty of other “leftovers” from our lovely and generous Sunday Roast. This is a generous one-pot meal that keeps on giving, perfect for the Dark Days.

Roast Chicken with Root Vegetables and Cider

1 3½-4 lb chicken

2½ tsp salt

2 tbsp vegetable oil or butter (I used organic ghee)

1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and cubed

1 onion, roughly chopped

2 carrots, peeled and sliced

1 medium or 2 small parsnips, peeled and sliced or cubed

1 yellow turnip, peeled and cubed

1 very small rutabaga, peeled and cubed

1 tsp dried winter savory or thyme or a combination

1 c cider

1 small handful chard or kale leaves

The day before you plan on roasting the chicken, clean and dry it and rub salt all over. Place on a rack in a pan in the refrigerator overnight (or for at least 8 hours if you do this in the morning).

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Coat the chicken with oil or butter and place in a shallow roasting pan. Roast for 15 minutes.

Add the apple and vegetables to the roasting pan, sprinkle the chicken and vegetables with the herbs and pour the cider on top of the vegetables.  Roast for an hour or until the thigh juices run clear. Remove the chicken and vegetables and let them sit for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, add the green to the liquid in the pan and wilt them, arranging the greens with the root vegetables.

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Curried Turkey Waldorf Salad

Nearly a week after Thanksgiving, with a pile of turkey still left over, I am starting to disguise it so it doesn’t taste like we’re eating the same thing for days on end. No more potatoes, gravy, stuffing for us, preferring instead to lighten things up a bit. Not that this salad is all that light, but its piquant flavors, crunchy textures, pretty colors and service on top of bitter greens like local organic mizuna make it feel very distant from the groaning board of last Thursday. 

Waldorf Salad, hailing from the famed (and gorgeous) New York City Waldorf Hotel of the 1890s, is traditionally composed of apples, celery and walnuts in a mayonnaise dressing. I made a different dressing, with the requisite mayonnaise cut with sour cream and curry powder. I added raisins so that the dressing would become chutney-like, and sprinkled the apples with lemon juice, which in addition to keeping the fruit from browning, added spark to the ensemble. Plus cubed turkey of course. The bitter greens were a great counterpoint.  This was a successful impromptu arrangement that actually would be worth making again with chicken when turkey becomes a distant holiday memory. (The Turkey Board, if there is such a thing, would diss me for that statement, I’m sure.)

Curried Turkey Waldorf Salad

1½ c cubed cooked turkey (or chicken) breast

1 small apple, cored and cubed (1/2 inch dice), sprinkled with juice of ½ lemon

1 stalk celery, stringed and cut into ½-inch pieces

2 tbsp or more walnut pieces (toasted or not)

2 tbsp or more raisins

2 tbsp good quality mayonnaise

2 tbsp sour cream

1 tsp curry powder

Optional: a little milk

Optional garnish: sliced green onion tops or chives

Bitter greens such as endive, mizuna, radicchio, arugula

Combine the turkey, apple, celery, walnuts and raisins in a serving bowl. Combine the mayonnaise, sour cream and curry powder in a small bowl to make a dressing for the salad. If it seems too thick, thin with a few drops of milk. Toss the dressing with the other ingredients, combining well. Serve on bitter greens and garnish with sliced green onion tops or chives, if desired.

Serves 2-3

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Waste Not Want Not – Getting the Most from Your Food: Apple Jelly with Thanksgiving Herbs or Spices

After peeling and coring eight organically grown apples for a Thanksgiving pie and sprinkling the slices with the juice of a fresh lemon to keep them from browning, I had a pile of leftovers that could have gone into the garbage can or the compost heap, but why? They make the perfect combination for jelly. Natural pectin is developed from the peels and seeds of both apples and lemons, so I simply covered them with water, simmered them with herbs until soft and drained the liquid in a jelly bag overnight. I used sage, rosemary and thyme as the flavoring but alternatively I could have used the peelings and scraps of fresh ginger, which I’ll do next time. With added sugar, and 5 minutes of boiling the next day, we had a gorgeous, aromatic and very tasty jelly for our morning biscuits (or in the case of the ginger, we would have a glaze for a fruit tart).

People often ask me how I have time to preserve so much stuff for my pantry. The simple answer is that once you’re comfortable with the technique, this type of jelly takes no time or focus. It took me longer to post this than to make it, but each under 15 minutes and while I was doing other things. Like toasting my homemade gluten- and dairy-free cornbread for stuffing, making turkey stock, baking pumpkin and apple pies, and otherwise preparing for the big feast.

I didn’t can this jar, which would have added 10-15 minutes’ more effort, but I am giving you the directions to do so.

Herb Jelly from Apple and Lemon Peelings

Peels and cores from 8 (or so) large apples

1 lemon and its seeds after juicing, chopped

Sprigs of herbs (sage, rosemary, thyme) or trimmings from fresh ginger

Water

Sugar (proportional)

Put the apple and lemon trimmings and the herbs or ginger in a large soup pot and barely cover with water. Bring water to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook, covered, for 30-45 minutes or until very soft. Pour into a jelly bag suspended over a bowl (or a sieve lined with cheesecloth) and let the mixture drain a minimum of two hours or overnight.

If you are going to preserve the jelly via water bath canning, prepared the jars and lids.

Place a saucer in the freezer before you start so that you have a cold surface to gauge the gel.

Measure the strained juice and for every cup, add ¾ cup of granulated sugar. Combine the apple-lemon-herb liquid and sugar in a wide pot and bring to a boil. Boil rapidly for 5-6 minutes (or longer, not to worry) until the gel point is reached (when a drop placed on a cold saucer doesn’t run and wrinkles when touched).

Spoon the jelly into prepared jars. If you are planning on inserting herbs, let the jars cool for 5 minutes so that the jelly becomes stiff enough to suspend them. Dunk the herbs in boiling water before inserting in the jars. And make sure that they are not trapping air at the edges. Cap with sterilized lids and place in water bath canner. Cook at a rolling boil for 10 minutes, then turn off heat, remove cover and let stand for 5 minutes until removing the jars to cool completely before storing.

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Apple-Mace Muffins

These are the ultimate Sunday morning muffins – light but rich with a delicate crumb and a lingering spiciness. The tops are crunchy from a sprinkling of brown sugar crystals and the inside contains tiny cubes of fall apples. When I thought about making muffins for this month’s Spice Rack Challenge, I envisioned a perfect autumn breakfast in the garden, with the air crisp and clear, orange leaves slowly drifting down, and the smell of smoke from a neighbor’s chimney. Spiced muffins fresh from the oven, hot mulled apple cider, sliced pears….

Ahem, the only thing that materialized in that little dream of mine was the tray of muffins. A late-season nor’easter tore up the coast yesterday and dumped about 6 inches of snow on us. Snow and ice! This is the freakin’ day before freakin’ Halloween. This is October. Normally, we would think a storm like this was early if it came around Thanksgiving. So I spent Saturday canning tomatoes that I picked at our CSA last week. Haha. That was, after I harvested all of the peppers and other perishables from my garden as the sloppy wet flakes fell to the ground. Stores closed, games were postponed, trees and power lines were down, parking lots were 4 inches deep in slush, and everyone looked at each other and said, “This is ridiculous.” 

So, I’m glad I took the time to make the muffins. I adapted them pretty liberally from a recipe in Marion Cunningham’s excellent Breakfast Book, which she called the “last word in nutmeg muffins.” I substituted mace for nutmeg (they’re related, and I actually liked the mace better than I would have nutmeg), added diced apples, sprinkled the tops with sugar and made them in several sizes. Her recipe was supposed to make 12 muffins. Mine made 12 full size and 12 minis.  This is the first time I made these muffins and I have to say that they’re a keeper.

Apple-Mace Muffins adapted from Marion Cunningham

2 c all-purpose flour

¾ c granulated white sugar

1 tbsp baking powder

1½ tsp ground mace (or grate a whole nutmeg)

½ tsp salt

5 tbsp butter, melted

1 egg, room temperature

¾ c heavy cream

¾ c milk (I used nonfat)

1 apple, peeled, cored and cut into ¼-inch dice

1 tbsp turbinado or Demerara sugar (brown sugar crystals)

Butter for the muffin pans (or use paper cups)

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Prepare muffin pans (18 regular size or 12 regular size and 12 minis or 36 minis) by buttering them or inserting paper muffin cups.

Sift together the dry ingredients.

Melt the butter in a 2-cup glass measuring cup in the microwave oven, until just melted. Cool slightly and add the egg, beating the mixture with a fork. Add the cream and milk (you can measure this right into the cup to keep the number of dishes down since the butter and egg will equal ½ cup).

Pour the liquid into the dry ingredients, stirring lightly until the flour is just absorbed. Do not over mix. Fold in the diced apples. Spoon batter into the muffin cups, filling them 2/3 full. Sprinkle the sugar crystals on top.

Bake for about 20 minutes, or until the tops are golden. Let them cool for 5 minutes and remove them (gently, they’re delicate when warm) to a cooling rack. Serve warm.

Makes 18 full-sized muffins, or 12 full-sized and 12 minis, or 36 minis.

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Summer Bread Pudding with Berries

I found a bowlful of cubed bread on the kitchen counter this morning, a not-so-subtle hint about Sunday breakfast. So I whipped up a summer bread pudding with the first apples of the season and organic blackberries that I picked at our CSA farm. As I’ve said before, I make bread pudding based on proportions of ingredients: 1 egg per half a cup of milk and one and a quarter cup of cubed bread. I usually add one-quarter to one-half the volume of bread of other ingredients, sweet or savory. I like this approach because we have varying volumes of stale bread at any time.

Summer Bread Pudding with Berries

3¾ – 4 c cubed stale bread (3/4-inch pieces)

1 large apple, peeled and cubed

Handful of berries (I used blackberries)

Dab of butter

3 eggs

1½ c milk

½ c sugar

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Combine the bread and fruit and place it in a buttered baking dish. Lightly beat the eggs and add the milk and sugar, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Pour over the bread mixture, pressing down lightly to make sure the top bread cubes are moistened.  Bake for 45-50 minutes or until the custard is set. Best eaten warm or at room temperature.

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Dark Days Week 1: Pork Roast with Potato-Rutabaga Gratin

For the Dark Days Challenge, which spans four and a half months, participants cook a meal a week based on Sustainable, Organic, Local and Ethical ingredients and processes.  I decided to join in this year to test my assumptions and stretch my resources and resourcefulness. We eat according to “SOLE” principles throughout the local growing season by relying on the organic practices of our amazing CSA, attending farmers’ markets and growing a small crop in our in-town “lawn-to-food” garden and in pots. Local ingredients dwindle by December and we rely on our stash and our pantry during the dark days of winter.

I am curious to see what’s really local in Central New Jersey and nearby Eastern Pennsylvania during this period. I would like to get ideas of what I’d like to grow myself next year (dried beans, for example) and how to be more deliberate about what we preserve. This is going to be a learning experience! I can’t wait to find new wintry sources for local food and prospect my pantry at the same time.

For purposes of this challenge, “local” means grown within a 100-mile radius and we’re allowed to declare a few exceptions. For me, the exceptions are oil, vinegar, salt and spices (which includes pepper and various seeds) and, to the extent that I decide to use flour, I will rely on the organic flour from a local mill, although I know they source from a hundred + miles beyond.  I might also use something – sparingly – from my pantry that already contains sugar or citrus, but for anything cooked fresh, I’ll use a local ingredient.

For the first Dark Days meal, I returned to an old tradition that we don’t practice much anymore: the Sunday roast. There’s a great farm about 12 miles away that makes wonderful pork products “in the right way” so I bought a small loin that I marinated in an herb rub of rosemary and thyme from my garden, crushed with garlic and salt. I served the roast and its juices alongside a simple gratin of organic red potatoes, rutabagas and carrots from a local farm and our CSA (I dug the rutabagas myself), made with a broth from our SOLE Thanksgiving turkey, and strips of the wrapper leaves from a huge Savoy cabbage that I bought from a responsible farmer. All this was accompanied by the tangy counterpoint of a thick and flavorful applesauce made from a variety of apples purchased from a local orchard.

I’m personally not much of a meat eater, and not a great meat cook, so I have to give credit to the Simply Grazin’ Farm for the flavorful roast. We had enough for a second dinner for a bunch of us, another SOLE success, which featured roasted acorn squash and a sauté of cabbage and Portobello mushrooms with an abundance of the last dill harvested before the freeze.

Roasted Pork Loin

2-3 lb pork loin roast, tied

2-3 sprigs each of thyme and rosemary, leaves stripped from the stems and chopped

1 large or 2 small cloves garlic

Salt

Olive oil (optional)

Remove the pork loin from the refrigerator and place it in a roasting pan, fat side up. Pound the herbs with the garlic and salt to make a paste. Add olive oil if using. Spread the paste over the roast and work it into the flesh. Let it sit for an hour or so. This has the advantage of bringing the meat closer to room temperature and allows the herb mixture to infuse the meat.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.  Place the roast in the oven for about 10 minutes, turn down the heat to 300 and cook for 10 minutes per pound or until a thermometer inserted into the center of the roast reads 150-160 degrees, depending on how well done you want it. Remember that it will continue to cook while sitting for 10 minutes before carving. Serve with the natural juices.

Potato and Root Vegetable Gratin

This is called a gratin in our household because of its format. If made with milk, or with added grated cheese (gratin and grated are related etymologically), it would have a golden crust. This version was made with turkey broth since it had to be dairy-free. The trick, with either milk or broth, is to warm the sliced vegetables in the liquid before arranging them in the baking dish. This not only helps start the cooking but it also diminishes the tendency of these vegetables to brown when cut, and creates a browned surface You can mix and match just about any root vegetables, or intersperse them with some greens. Onions and garlic can be added, but I was aiming for the simplicity of these early winter roots.

2 medium potatoes

1 small rutabaga

1 carrot

1 c chicken or turkey broth

Salt

Grated cheese or butter (optional)

Herbs such as thyme, savory, rosemary (optional)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Heat the broth in a saucepan. Peel the vegetables and slice them thinly, adding them to the broth as you go. Simmer for a few minutes, and then arrange them in a shallow baking dish. Dot with butter or sprinkle with cheese, if using.

Bake for about 35-40 minutes, or until soft when pierced with a knife and browned on top.

Applesauce

About 6 apples, various types

Peel all but two of the apples and cut them into chunks, removing the seeds and cores. Place in a saucepan with a small amount of water and cook, covered, for about 20 minutes, or until tender. You can now mash the apples or leave them chunky, add a few spices like cinnamon or ginger, or leave them plain as we did.

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Apple-Cranberry-Raisin Conserve with Port and Thyme

Chunky apples sweetened with raisins and a few dried cranberries, tempered by thyme and softened by a shot of port, this conserve will be great with potato pancakes, baked winter squash, pumpkin soup, and any number of other wintry dishes. I also made this with pears and raisins, and it was equally good. Both versions were pretty spunky from the orange and lemon juices, relatively small amount of sugar and the addition of herbs. For the December (can’t believe it’s been a whole year!) Tigress Can Jam, the theme is dried fruit, used as an accent. When we focused on alliums earlier this year, I made a curried onion jam with raisins, which I plan on making again soon, before the local onions disappear, so I was pretty confident that raisins would be a good counterpoint to the fruit.

The recipe for this concoction was based on “Pear, Port and Thyme Conserve” in Erica Bone’s Well-Preserved cookbook, which she in turn adapted from a recipe I couldn’t identify in the Ball Complete Book of Home Preserving. While I used Bone’s concept and method, I changed just about everything else.

Apple Conserve with Port and Thyme adapted from Erica Bone’s Well-Preserved

½ c freshly squeezed orange juice

¼ c lemon juice (bottled to guarantee acidity or a little additional fresh)

1 tbsp lemon zest

½ c turbinado or demerara (brown) sugar

½ tsp ground cinnamon

¼ tsp freshly ground nutmeg

1 tsp grated fresh ginger

Pinch of salt

½ c raisins

2 tbsp dried cranberries

3 lbs apples, peeled cored and coarsely chopped (1/2-3/4-inch pieces)

4 tsp fresh thyme leaves

¼ c port wine

Prepare the canning jars. Place the juices, seasonings, sugar and dried fruit in a large saucepan and bring the mixture to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the apples, stir to combine and let them boil gently, with the pan covered, for 15 minutes. Remove the lid and cook slowly for another 15 minutes or until the fruit is soft but still somewhat chunky. Add the port and thyme and stir to combine. Ladle into hot canning jars, making sure to tamp the fruit down to eliminate air pockets. Process the jars in a water bath canner for 10 minutes after the water boils. Turn off the heat, remove canner lid and let sit for 5 minutes until moving to a spot where the jars can sit undisturbed until cool.  Makes about 5 half-pint jars.

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Apple Cake

I started making this rustic cake when I was in graduate school and appreciated the fact that it economically includes about half the amount of butter and eggs of other cakes of this size. The recipe makes a seemingly small amount of stiff batter compared to the volume of sliced apples, but once the apples are stirred in and the cake is baked, it works well. I can’t pinpoint the origin of this, but I would bet on an old popular magazine like Woman’s Day.

Apple Cake

¼ c soft butter

1 c sugar

1 egg

1 c all-purpose flour

½ tsp baking powder

¼ tsp baking soda

¼ tsp salt

1 tsp cinnamon

½ tsp grated nutmeg

½ tsp ground ginger

Pinch of ground cloves

3 tart apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced into 1/8-inch thick slices

Cream the butter and sugar well, add the egg and continue to beat until light and fluffy. Sift the fry ingredients together and add, stirring until well mixed. Gently stir in the apples. Pour into a buttered 9-inch pie pan, spreading the batter smoothly over the apples. Bake in a pre-heated 350-degree oven for an hour. Serve warm with whipped cream.

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Apple and Tomato Sorbet

A failed jelly transforms into a happy sorbet. I had been attempting to make a tomato (aka love apple) jelly using a pectin-making technique that involves melting down and draining green apples with tomatoes (like making herb jelly). I had followed what appeared to be an all-in-one technique in a new cookbook on preserving, which I now doubt. I’m in the camp that avoids powder or glop that magically gels liquid in the jam-making process. Halfway through making tomato jelly, I aborted the mission, pureed the apples (without skins and cores) and combined them with the tomatoes and sugar that were in the works.  Hmmm. What to do with this tomato applesauce? Muffins?

The puree sat in my refrigerator for a couple of days until we were out of our weekly supply of sorbet. So I processed it, being prepared to toss the whole thing. Not at all!  It was refreshing, familiar but elusive in taste, and well textured. For anyone who makes sorbet regularly, there’s an iciness factor to be overcome. You can call it granita or fix it. Artisanal shops have the capacity to introduce more air in the churning process. They might rely on invert sugar, which I’ve yet to try. But for the home cook with a conventional ice cream processor (mine’s from Krups, which uses a pre-chilled bowl), the texture of the contents is what keeps the sorbet creamy. Apples work, and so do plums, peaches, nectarines.  Other types of fruit need some support, which includes adding a tablespoon of vodka or a complementary liqueur or, for some, a tablespoon of light (clear) corn syrup.

The happy accident of this apple and tomato sorbet is worth repeating, possibly drizzled with balsamic vinegar or saba (a fermented reduction with a balsamic base)… or maybe shredded  basil, to pique the tomato flavor… or a pinch of cinnamon to complement the apples. Meanwhile, the trusty apple proves – once again – that it is the staple of the fruit world.

Apple and Tomato Sorbet

3 medium tomatoes, about 1- 1 ½ lb

3 granny smith or other tart apples, about 1 lb

1 c sugar (could reduce to ¾ c)

Juice of 1 lemon

Pinch of salt

Chop the tomatoes and place them in a saucepan over high heat. Cook until the juices are rendered and cover the tomato chunks, 3-5 minutes. Remove the tomato chunks and reserve them, leaving the liquid in the saucepan. (Or strain the tomatoes through a sieve and capture the liquid to return to the pan.)

Meanwhile, peel and core the apples and cut them into chunks. Add them to the tomato liquid along with the sugar, and cook them slowly, stirring occasionally, until the apples are completely broken down.

Puree the apple mixture, add the tomato chunks and lemon juice and cool the mixture. If the mixture tastes “flat,” add a pinch of salt. Refrigerate the sorbet mix until very cold and process it in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Makes about 1 quart.

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Apple Bread Pudding

Shut in again by near blizzard conditions and finished for the day with my “professional work,” I had two basic choices: cook or clean. Now let’s think…. How about cleaning out the pantry a little and cooking a lot? Since I had made bread earlier in the week, there were extra hunks getting stale, plus I had some apples that were ready to move on. The Dad regards bread pudding as one of the ultimate comfort foods, just the thing for the weather, so the choice was obvious.

Back in December, I wrote a post about savory bread pudding made of roasted root vegetables left over from Thanksgiving, also obvious. I explained that bread pudding for me is an exercise in proportions. I use 2 eggs per cup of milk and 2-21/2 cups of bread. I then add 1-2 cups of other ingredients that wouldn’t soak up the liquid, plus seasonings. Coincidentally, I had a similar amount of cubed bread today, so the recipe below mirrors December’s except that for sweet bread pudding, add 1/3-1/2 cup sugar in proportion to the above. Mix any spices (ground cinnamon in this case) with the sugar so that they don’t just float in the liquid.

This was not only delicious. It filled the house with a wonderful aroma and drove us to light a fire for a cozy evening inside, buffered from the howling winds all around us.

Apple Bread Pudding

Butter for the baking dish

5 cups cubed stale bread

2 apples, unpeeled, cubed

1/3 cup dried cranberries

½ cup coarsely chopped walnuts (optional)

4 eggs

2 cups milk

3/4 cup sugar

1 tsp. cinnamon

Butter for the baking dish

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Mix bread, apples and dried cranberries in a buttered 10×10-inch glass or ceramic baking dish. Lightly beat the eggs, add the sugar mixed with cinnamon and then the milk, mixing thoroughly. Pour over the bread mixture and push down on the bread cubes to make sure they are saturated. Let rest for a few minutes to allow the bread to absorb the liquid. Bake for 45-50 minutes, or until the custard has set.  It will continue to cook as it is set aside to cool.

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