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Archive for September, 2010

A failed jelly transforms into a happy sorbet. I had been attempting to make a tomato (aka love apple) jelly using a pectin-making technique that involves melting down and draining green apples with tomatoes (like making herb jelly). I had followed what appeared to be an all-in-one technique in a new cookbook on preserving, which [...]

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I cook with color.  I am as interested in balancing the colors and textures of food, as I am the taste. I say, “balancing,” but that doesn’t mean “equal-equal.” Cooking with color allows me to emphasize seasonality, to make a completely green dish in spring and an overwhelmingly yellow dish in fall. Here is a [...]

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After the steamed and fried okra served as sides and the pancakes as a main course, we made gumbo. Three ways: with chicken, with fish and a vegetarian version. Gumbo is basically a stew with a dark roux base (flour cooked in oil until very dark brown, like an over-cooked gravy base), stock (chicken, fish, [...]

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I am not remotely Southern but after eating okra and various gumbos over the past weeks, I can say that I appreciate Southern food. Collard greens are back in our CSA farm’s choice group.  I’m always happy to welcome a member of the Brassica family, which includes cabbage and broccoli, because of the high nutritional [...]

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On we go with a bonanza of okra harvested weekly from our CSA farm. Here we have fritters (or more properly pancakes) that combined cornmeal and flour with buttermilk and eggs, and added okra, scallions and corn. They were served over tomato sauce and garnished with steamed okra and corn and snipped herbs.  This recipe [...]

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With okra in great supply over the past month, I have been making it in all kinds of ways, often combining it with corn and tomatoes. Some people object to the texture of okra, which can get gelatinous. I harvest my own, between 2-4 inches and cook it soon afterwards, and it’s not gooey at [...]

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When the humidity drops and the nights become cool, late summer gratins seem like the perfect transition to fall cuisine. I am not ready for the creams and cheeses of the gratins of late fall and winter, but it does feel good to have a warm and homey dish that is still redolent of summer.  [...]

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These lovely little bites of creamed corn and miniature cherry tomatoes on puff pastry used up a little of this and that to make some tasty treats. Melissa Clark, writing in the New York Times this last week, talked about her summer-long obsession with creamed corn. This is not something I’d normally make but now [...]

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Green Chard Tart

Chard is an easy and versatile green that finds its way into all kinds of dishes at our house. With frozen puff pastry, making the tart shell is a snap. The tart dough can either be fitted to a pan with a removable bottom or be slightly rolled out. I prefer the latter since it [...]

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I’m really happy with my first pass at a plum sauce: slightly sweet and sour, with a tang from the ginger and mustard seeds, heat from the jalapeno, and a rich spice flavor from star anise. I made a small trial batch so I canned only one 8-oz jar and had one 4-oz jar for [...]

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